See the Fishes Chase Ur Mouse

Protozoan Hooks leave less chance of survival.So beware!

Tonight(as it is 00:00 now) I start with A super duper secret tip:
If poor water quality is suspected, clean tank and do a 50% water change. Disinfect the aquarium with acriflavine (trypaflavine) or monacrin (monoaminoacridine) using a 0.2% solution at the rate of 1 ml per liter. Both disinfectants will color the water, but the color will disappear as the disinfectants dissipate. Do not overfeed while the aquarium is being treated.

(1) Velvet or Rust

Symptoms: Clamped fins, respiratory distress (breathing hard), yellow to light brown "dust" on body.

Description: This disease has the appearance of a golden or brownish dust over the fins and body. The fish may show signs of irritation, like glancing off aquarium decor, shortage of breath (fish-wise), and clamping of the fins. The gills are usually the first thing affected. Velvet affects different species in different ways. Danios seem to be the most susceptible, but often show no discomfort. This disease is highly contagious and fatal.

The best treatment is with copper at 0.2 mg per liter (0.2 ppm) to be repeated once in a few days if necessary. Acriflavine (trypaflavine) may be used instead at 0.2% solution (1 ml per liter). As acriflavine can possibly sterilize fish and copper can lead to poisoning, the water should be gradually changed after a cure has been effected.

(2) Marine Velvet (Amyloodinium ocellatum)


Symptoms: Respiratory distress (fast breathing - gills opening more than 80 times per minute); White, yellow to light brown, or grey "dusty" appearance on body, Loss of appetite, Rubbing or scratching against decor or substrate.
Description: Marine velvet is one of the most common maladies experienced in the marine aquarium, with the other being Marine Ich. It is found in all the oceans of the world and often infects wild and newly caught marine fish. It is a fast moving disease that can cause mass casualties. Primarily it infects the gills of fish but can attach itself to the body as well, burrowing deep into the skin's subcutaneous layer. Deaths are generally a result of interference to the respiratory system. This disease is highly contagious and fatal.
Chemical treatments for this disease include using copper. Follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Natural methods include hyposalinity, a quarantine tank with a low salinity. A danger with with using low salinity is in re-acclimating the fish to a higher salinity. You must be able to accurately measure the salinity and must increase it very slowly.

(3) Costia


Symptoms: Milky cloudiness on skin.
Description:This is a rare protozoan disease that causes a cloudiness of the skin. The best treatment is with copper at 0.2 mg per liter (0.2 ppm) to be repeated once in a few days if necessary. Acriflavine (trypaflavine) may be used instead at 0.2% solution (1 ml per liter). As acriflavine can possibly sterilize fish and copper can lead to poisoning, the water should be gradually changed after a cure has been effected.
Raising the water temperature to 80º - 83º F for a few days has also been effective.

(4) Hexamita


This discus died of hexamita.
Symptoms: The first symptom of slimy, white mucous feces, even while still eating and acting normal. Further signs are the fish hiding in the corner it's head down, head above the eyes gets thin, they blacken in color, and swim backwards.
Description: Hexamita are intestinal flagellated protozoa that attack the lower intestine. Discus and other large cichlids, especially Oscars, are especially prone to Hexamita. As it is a disease of the digestive tract, a wasting away or loss of appetite may be experienced.An effective treatment is the drug metronidazole. A combined treatment in the food (1% in any food the fish will eat) and in the water (12 mg per liter) is recommended. Repeat the water treatment every other day for three treatments.
From my experience:
i tell u a fact.....
(This disease is often confused with another disease called Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE),which use to be called "hole-in-the-head" disease, because both these diseases are often seen simultaneously in the same fish.


Head and Lateral Line Erosion disease looks like cavities or pits on the head and face. It is not a protozoan disease, but is actually caused by environmental conditions.)
 
(5) Neon Tetra Disease


Symptoms: Whitened areas deep into the fishes' flesh. Muscle degeneration leading to abnormal swimming movements.
Description:So named for the fish it was first recognized on. It is caused by the sporozoa Plistophora hyphessobryconis. Even though it is named after Neon Tetras, it can appear on other fish. Whitish patches appear as if just below the skin. In Neon Tetras it destroys the bright blue-green neon stripe. The organisms form cysts which burst and release spores. The spores penetrate further and form more cysts. Eventually, the spores migrate to the water and are eaten by other fish in the food. These spores migrate into the digestive tract, then the muscles, and a new infection starts.
There is no known cure. It is best to destroy the infected fish and clean the aquarium.May be cruel but better loose one and save ten.

(6) Glugea and Henneguya


Symptoms: Similar to Lymphocystis, the fish will have nodular white swellings on fins or body.
Description: Glugea and Henneguya are sporozoans that form large cysts on the fish's body and release spores. Luckily, these diseases are very rare. The fish bloat up, with tumor like protrusions, and eventually die.
No cure, as of yet. It is best to destroy the infected fish before the spores can spread.
(7) Chilodonella


Serpae tetra are generally pink in colour now look at the disaster.
Symptoms: Dulling of the colors due to excessive slime, fraying of the fins, weakness, gill damage.
Description:This disease causes a blue white cloudiness on the skin and attacks the gills. Later the skin may be broken down and the gills destroyed. The fish may behave like they have irritations, by glancing off aquarium decor, they may have clamped fins and difficulty breathing.
Acriflavine (trypaflavine) may be used at 1% solution (5 ml per liter). As acriflavine can sterilize fish, the water should be gradually changed after a cure has been effected. It also helps to raise the temperature to about 80º F.

(8) African Bloat or "Malawi Bloat"


The protozoan and bacterial infection leave no space for survival for the poor ciclid.
Symptoms: The first sign of 'bloat' is loss of appetite which is then followed by swelling of the abdomen, labored breathing, listlessness, reclusiveness, possible red striations on the body, and stringy white feces.
Description:There seems to be no explainable rationale as to its cause of bloat. Once a fish becomes afflicted it is often fatal. A fish that is not eating must be treated immediately or it can quickly become incurable and die. Though It is not certain what this disease is, it is generally believed to be caused by a protozoal parasite complicated by bacterial infection. Bloat is a serious malady often associated with African cichlids especially those from Lake Malawi, thus the common name 'Malawi Bloat'. The Tropheus species from Lake Tanganyika are also very susceptible.
*tip:
The most common cause of this disease is stress and the first sign if illness is not eating. Stress can be caused by such things as transport, netting, poor water quality, insufficient diet, over feeding, and a lack of hiding places. Other causes, that are easily remedied, are an improper diet and adding too much salt to the water. Prevention is of utmost importance, and It is possibly to cure a fish if treated right away.

|*Very Important Tips(VIT) *|
Following are some techniques aquarists use:

Any new specimens you obtain can have bloat or will often soon develop it. When you first acquire them try to provide them with the same food that the dealer was feeding, and then wean them onto a good vegetable based diet; Spirulina flake and pellet.

Some will soak the food in dissolved metronidazol and feed them that for the first few days when first obtained. Seachem makes a metronidazol that can be bound to food when used with their Focus product.

A good vegetable based diet is important.(koi,and gold love spinach,even the my turtle loves it too)

A healthy group of fish will eat with gusto. But even though they can be very active feeders it is important to not overfeed them. Keep an eye on them, and if one is not eating with vigor some aquarists will then treat the tank with Clout.

One author says that they will segregate an ailing fish the second they see signs of not eating, and then will do water changes every day for 5 days in the main aquarium.

Metronidazol is considered the most reliable cure and some use Clout as another cure, but do not use them together.

Well i have skipped a disease which is the most common and the most widespread and has many types,
to know about it please follow my posts,timely
until then
||Bee Fishy!!||

well all u fishy people (thank u for being fishy) at my blog,and i appreciate all my visitors and thank my followers.

Well in the fish world the most beautiful fishes sustaining their beauty and maintaining the pride of their name are "Angel" fishes.Specially you may observe that most of the salt water angels have royal names
for example:king,queen,regal or royal,emperor and others,
I have listed some with their common and scientific names please comment if you like.
To  see hd pic click on it.
For HD pictures of some of my exclusive collection of angels please submit ur blog and notify me ur email.
and
||bee fishy!||
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Blueface angelfish


Blue-girdled Angelfish


Centropyge_argi(cherub pygmy)


Centropyge_bicolor


Centropyge_bispinosa(coral beauty)


Centropyge_flavissima(lemon peel)


Centropyge_loricula(flame angel)


Centropyge_potteri(potter)


Chaetodontoplus(scribbled)


French angelfish


Genicanthus_caudovittatus(zebra lyretail)


Holacanthus_passer(king)


Paracentropyge_venusta(purple masked)


Pomacanthus_annularis(bluering)


Pomacanthus_imperator_juvenile(Emperor_angelfish)


Pomacanthus_sexstriatus(sixbar)


Pygoplites_diacanthus(regal)


Queen angelfish


Rock_Beauty_Angelfish






           

Sorry for delay in delivering this post, i m entangled in the cobwebs of life well still for my readers i m back,
well here i go.....



Bacterial diseases are characterised by red streaks or spots and or swelling of the abdomen or eye. These are best treated by antibiotics such as penicillin,amoxicillin or erythromycin. As i have observed the most common parasitic disease called "Ich" can be treated most effectively with copper or malachite green in the right dosage. Most of the treatments will have copper as an ingredient(including aquari-sol).
When using any anti-biotic make sure the biological filteration in your aquarium is not destroyed.Although most of the treatments available at the store state that they will not harm your biological filters but,sometimes they will and it is best to either monitor your ammonia and nitrite levels,or use an ammonia remover such as "AmQuel" to be sure your levels of ammonia dont become a problem.

When using any medication which has copper as an ingredient, be aware that most plants will not do as well and that invertebrates,such as snails,will be killed. Indeed ,most snails removers are copper based.
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VIRAL  DISEASES


(1)Lymphocystis

   
Symptoms: Nodular white swellings (cauliflower) on fins or body.

Description: Lymphocystis is a virus and being a virus, affects the cells of the fish. It usually manifests itself as abnormally large white lumps (cauliflower) on the fins or other parts of the body. It can be infectious, but is usually not fatal. Unfortunately, there is no cure. Fortunately, this is a rare disease.
There are two suggested treatments.One treatment is to remove and destroy the infected fish as soon as possible. The other treatment is to simply separate the infected fish for several months and hope for remission, which usually does occur.


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BACTERIAL  DISEASES





(1)Red Pest
                                            

This remirezi of mine suffers from both red pest and tail rot. You see the pelvic fins they have red pest so red.


Symptoms: Bloody streaks on fins or body.

Description: Red Pest is called such because of bloody streaks that appear on the body, fins and/or tail. These streaks could proceed to ulcerations and possibly lead to fin and tail rot with, in severe cases, the tail and/or fins falling off. As the disease is internal, external treatments are usually not effective, except in very slight cases.      In slight cases, treat the aquarium with a disinfectant and clean the aquarium as best as possible. Do not feed a lot while the aquarium is being treated. To disinfect, use acriflavine (trypaflavine) or monacrin (monoaminoacridine) using a 0.2% solution at the rate of 1 ml per liter. Both disinfectants will color the water, but the color disappears as the disinfectants dissipates. If the fish do not appear to respond favorably, discontinue disinfections.
     Then add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water.

(2)Mouth Fungus


Symptoms: White cottony patches around the mouth.
Description: Mouth Fungus is so called because it looks like a fungus attack of the mouth. It is actually caused from the bacterium Chondrococcus columnaris. It shows up first as a gray or white line around the lips and later as short tufts sprouting from the mouth like fungus. The toxins produced and the inability to eat will be fatal unless treated at an early stage.
     Penicillin at 10,000 units per liter is a very effective treatment. Treat with a second dose in two days. Or use chloromycetin, 10 to 20 mg per liter, with a second dose in two days.

(3) Tuberculosis: Mycobacteriosis, Syn: fish tuberculosis, piscine tuberculosis, acid-fast disease, granuloma disease.











Symptoms: Emaciation, hollow belly, possibly sores.

Description: Tuberculosis is caused by the bacterium Mycobacterium piscium. Fish infected with tuberculosis may become lethargic, hollow bellied, pale, show skin ulcers and frayed fins, have fin and scale loss, and loss of appetite. Yellowish or darker nodules may appear on the eyes or body and may deform the fish.
     The main causes for this disease appears to be over crowding in unkempt conditions; ie. poor water quality. All fish species could be susceptible though some are more susceptible than others. Those most susceptible are the labyrinth air breathers like the Gouramis, Bettas, and Paradise Fish. Others include Neon Tetras, Discus, and the Ram Cichlid.

There is no absolute treatment. However the most effective treatment known for this disease is to treat with Kanamycin and Vitamin B-6 for 30 days. Kanamycin can be purchased at your local fish store. Liquid baby vitamins work well as s Vitamin B-6 source. They are available at your local pharmacy. Add one drop per every 5 gallons of aquarium water during treatment.
If the treatment is ineffective, the best thing to do is destroy the infected fish.
If either unkempt conditions or over crowding are the suspected cause, correct the condition.
      It is possible for humans to contract this disease so we recommend using caution when dealing with it. Humans are very rarely are at risk from aquariums though. It is more common to contract this disease from public swimming areas or as a food contaminant.


(4)Dropsy


The first pic shows a carp suffering from severe dropsy as is clear from the protruding scales,
and the other shows an x ray of a gold fish suffering from dropsy.

Symptoms: Bloating of the body, protruding scales.

Description: Dropsy is caused from a bacterial infection of the kidneys, causing fluid accumulation or renal failure. The fluids in the body build up and cause the fish to bloat up and the scales to protrude. It appears to only cause trouble in weakened fish and possibly from unkempt aquarium conditions.
     An effective treatment is to add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it.

(5) Scale Protrusion


Symptoms: Protruding scales without body bloat.

Description: Scale protrusion is essentially a bacterial infection of the scales and/or body. A variety of bacterium could be the culprit here, as can unkempt aquarium conditions.
     An effective treatment is to add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline,florfenicol,erythromycin,amoxycilin. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it.

A very effective antibiotic i have used is a secret but for my followers and visitors i tell u the name
:--->Cefadroxil

(6) Tail Rot & Fin Rot


Symptoms: Disintegrating fins that may be reduced to stumps, exposed fin rays, blood on edges of fins, reddened areas at base of fins, skin ulcers with gray or red margins, cloudy eyes.

Description:Tail and fin rot appears to be a bacterial infection of the tail and/or fins and may be caused by generally poor conditions, bully, or fin nipping tankmates. If aquarium conditions are not good an infection can be caused from a simple injury to the fins/tail. Tuberculosis can lead to tail and fin rot. Basically, the tail and/or fins become frayed or lose color. Over time the affected area slowly breaks down.
     First, attempt to ascertain the cause. Then treat accordingly. Also, treat the water or fish with antibiotics. If added to the water, use 20 - 30 mg per liter. If the fish is to be treated add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol) or tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it.
As i have observed ,when i added salt in this case the fishes responded and were cured easily,
the bacteria has a certain resistance to salt i.e.upto 10 ppm but if you add a fist full of salt in 600 litre tank then it dies overnight but,

*note: Your fishes must be salt resistant.

do read my post on Protozoan infections in fishes coming soon,and do comment,
until next time....



||bee fishy!||



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But you can also see it feel it in your home when you set up an aquarium.This is one hobby which does not require you to spend time or money any more than you should.In return the enjoyment that you obtain from your efforts is far more than any other home based activity,further in my opinion you save the fishes from the harsh realities of live they would face in the open in this detoriating world,i.e.till 2020 80% fish species would be wiped out from the world as world ocean and amazon basin temp. would rise by 5 degrees(for us it would be as if 50 degree centigrade).

From childhood to adolosence,still to adulthood our lives get busier and homes smaller,an aquarium in this condition is the best antidote to a sterssful lifestyle.It can prove to be very relaxing and therapeutic.Living in an apartment it is difficult to keep a dog for a pet.Also it is inhuman to keep a dog in a small area.But in fact i spend my time hours gazing at the peaceful and the ever in motion fishes.On the other hand an aquarium requires a small place in your home,is noiseless,beautiful,and the main thing you dont have to take the fishes
 to a walk!!
besides it is guaranteed to create a focal point of interest in you home.

MYTHOLOGY


Importance have been given to fishes in religeous fables and mythological stories.In INDIA the Matsya Avtaar(fish avatar of lord VISHNU) has been revered as a god. Esteem has been granted to fish as the vehicle of goddess GANGA(the longest and holy river in INDIA).
Fish has been synonymous with love as a mermaid.As king Neptune,fish has been associated with wealth too.
Vaastu and Feng Shui both recommend keeping fish at home or work place for better health and wealth.
According to Feng Shui,keeping eight gold and one black moor,in an aquarium placed in the north or the north east of the home is said to be beneficial for health and wealth of the family and for the success of their children. And at workplace,the aquarium should be kept at the southeast for success.
Feng Shui aquariums are handmade by artists according to the chinese thousand year old time tested feng shui theory.It takes 7 artists 10 days to finish only one aquarium.And in my opinion no one aquarium is like another and a true lover has urge to collect each design and each species of fish.


The Golden Arowana(Osteoglossum Bicirrhosum) is greatly priced in asia as a symbol of wealth and longevity.And it is proved by hundreds of survey that this fish really brings luck to its keeper and so is priced between $5000 to $6000.But this fish is however not for those who find eating live fishes disasterous as it only feeds on live fishes.
In japan,this fish is popular as it is said to become hyperactive just before an earthquake thereby warning the housemates and giving them a chance to seek safety.(green and red are cheaper)


It is also said and can be self experienced that if any ill or evil is to befall the family,the fish is said to absorb the bad essence and pass away giving relief to the family.


You would not believe aquariums to have mystic powers until you realllllly see a tank in motion and are deeply magnetized yourself by its condensed beauty of nature. You not only enjoy watching your fish but also under water scenary with mountain cliffs,waterfalls plants and flowers.
Whatever be the reason for keeping fish in an aquarium but one thing is certain,it is definitely very pleasing to see fish swiming serenely in the underwater enviornment.
please do involve yourself in the discussion and for any further queries on fish disease and care blog of to my site hola.
If u like my article and blog:
please do comment and subscribe to my upcoming posts.
Until next time....


|bee fishy!!|

There are literally hundreds of factors that can affect your cutie little fish's health.Only the most common afflictions are listed here.There are several precautions to reduce the possiblity of disease and keep it from spreading if it does occur.

----------------------------------------------------First of all buy good quality ,compatible fish/fishes.And in my opinion everyone should have a hospital tank so as to qurantine the new fish initially or in case of emergency,if not you can even use a bucket. That is quarantine the new fish before adding to the main tank.




Secondly,avoid stressing the fish with rough handling,sudden changes in conditions,or bully tankmates.






Thirdly, avoid rotten or wet food.And please never overfeed as the fishes die of constipation.(feeding after 12 hrs(2 times a day) is a good diet.
This Pearl Black Moor is really overfed and wont survive(90%).





Always remove a sick fish to a hospital tank for treatment,and always disinfect nets used to move sick fish. Never ever transfer water from quarantine tank to the main tank.

Dont let any metal come in contact with the aquariums water,and one more secret to best aquarium keeping is switch off all airation systems including filters when feeding floating pellets(most common food fo gold fishes and tropical fishes).



The most common maladies seen in home aquaria are usually either bacterial or parasitic in origin. Luckily,
most are easily diagnosed and can be treatedwith success. You can become a fish doctor as all medicines are available at your nearest pet store. The only thing needed for a proprietary treatment is proper diagnosis.
And one more tip for all the fellows reading this article:
*always remove all carbon based filteration system before adding copper based medicines or methylene blue as they cause clotting in the gills of fishes*

do read my post on bacterial and viral infections in fishes coming soon,and do comment,
until next time....
||bee fishy!||

About Me

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Bloggers and readers___> The aquarium is not just a glass tank holding water in which fish and other aquatic animals ponder about,as i believe it is an amazing window to the fascinating underwater world. This blog not only quenches u with atmost all species of fish but also their diseases,foods ,medicines,habitat and all u wanna know. And i promise i will try to sort out all ur queries,and will periodically update my blog,no matter where u r in the world. ___________ me a btech student,had a craze for animals since i was 6 years old but as i grew up i realised that to quench my thirst of exploring new species i must dive into the world aquatic animalia. ___________________ |bee fishy!!|

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